Exploring Quetzaltenango Where to stay Where to eat How to get around Things to do
Travellers in Guatemala often skip Quetzaltenango, also known by its Mayan name Xela. And that’s exactly what makes it unique.
Despite being Guatemala’s second biggest city, Quetzaltenango doesn’t attract nearly as many tourists as the UNESCO World Heritage Site that is Antigua. No doubt Antigua is a beautiful city, but it no longer has that authentic and local feel that you’ll still find in Quetzaltenango.
If you’re visiting Quetzaltenango (Xela) soon, you’ve come to the right place. After reading this guide, you’ll know which area to stay in, where to find the best restaurants, how to get around and what to do in Guatemala’s second-biggest city.
Is Quetzaltenango worth visiting?
As you wander through Quetzaltenango’s colourful colonial streets, you get a beautiful insight into the lives of the locals intertwined with the city’s history, culture and traditions.
This charm and compelling vibe are hard to capture in words — you’ll just have to see for yourself!
The area around Quetzaltenango is a hotspot for volcanoes, offering a number of incredible volcano hikes, including the highest peak in Central America, Tajumulco Volcano.
Inside the city, the streets are filled with stories to uncover and sites to visit. Simply slipping into everyday life in Quetzaltenango is one of the best things you can do too.
Is it Quetzaltenango or Xela?
You may have seen Quetzaltenango being referred to as Xela. This isn’t some nickname because “Quetzaltenango” is a long word that’s hard to spell. It’s a play on the city’s original name.
Before Spanish colonisation, the city was called Xelajú, hence Xela for short. It was the capital of the Maya K’Iche kingdom.
Whatever you want to call the city, one thing is for certain, there are plenty of fun things to do in Quetzaltenango.
How long should you spend in Quetzaltenango?
How long you stay in Quetzaltenango depends on your reason for visiting the city. Some people stay for months to volunteer or brush up on their language skills. It’s a livable city and there are some good and affordable Spanish schools here).
For this reason, Quetzaltenango has a small but close-knit expat community.
If you simply want to see the city and tick off the top things to do in Quetzaltenango, then 3-4 days is a good amount of time.
Where to stay in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala
Quetzaltenango is Guatemala’s second-biggest city after Guatemala City.
Most big cities have a number of neighbourhoods to pick from and areas to research. But when it comes to Quetzaltenango, choosing which area to stay in is quite simple.
Stay in Zona 1 — near Parque Central
Parque Central is the cultural epicentre of Quetzaltenango. It’s the heart of the city, bustling with activity and locals meeting with their friends.
It’s a great place to stay. This is where you’ll find the most restaurants, bars, cafes and shops.
Parque Central is within Zona 1, so anywhere in this area will be safe and full of options. Staying within Zona 1 means that most things you need will be within walking distance.
And you’ll probably want to walk as the streets in Zona 1 boast colourful and unique colonial architecture.
Accommodation in Quetzaltenango
We recommend booking your stay in advance. Considering how big Quetzaltenango is, there isn’t a huge number of accommodations to choose from.
The majority of accommodation options are homestays, small family-run hotels, Airbnbs and hostels.
Private rooms in Quetzaltenango start at around $15 per night.
Casa Seibel is a great budget option without having to compromise on comfort. If you’re not on a budget, Latam Hotel’s rooftop pool and gym are the perfect way to treat yourself.
Where to eat in Quetzaltenango
Guatemala isn’t the cheapest place to eat. That applies to Quetzaltenango too.
Although there might only be a few cheap options, there are plenty of delicious ones. You can find traditional Guatemalan cuisine and plenty of Italian influence in Quetzaltenango. Even Indian restaurants!
To make sure that you only have delicious meals in Quetzaltenango, check out our three favourites places to eat:
Restaurante Tertulianos — one of Quetzaltenango’s best restaurants
Restaurante Tertulianos is one of Quetzaltenango’s most famous restaurants. With thoughtful presentation and memorable flavours, the food here is on the fancier side,
Situated inside an elegant colonial-style building, boasting a gorgeous garden and beautifully adorned walls, Restaurante Tertulianos creates the perfect ambience for a meal.
Clara y Tinto — for a Spanish vibe and delicious wine
When entering Clara y Tinto, you’ll feel as if you’ve suddenly been transported to Spain. The moody and perfectly-lit interior creates the ideal place to enjoy some top-quality wine and tapas.
The wine bar offers a range of tapas to accompany your wine, co*cktail or beer. You can indulge in a cheese board, charcuterie board, salads and sandwiches. It’s a great place to spend an evening in Quetzaltenango.
Sabor de la India — a taste of India in Guatemala
Indian food might not be what you came to Guatemala for, but it doesn’t mean that you have to miss out on Sabor de la India. There is an array of dishes to choose from, including all of your favourite Indian dishes.
The food is seasoned with rich spices and cooked with care — you can almost taste it in the food. Sabor de la India is also one of the cheaper options in Quetzaltenango.
How to get around Quetzaltenango
Exactly what we like to hear when visiting a new city — Quetzaltenango is an easy city to navigate. Despite being the second biggest city in Guatemala, Quetzaltenango packs most of its must-sees into a small area.
The best ways to get around Quetzaltenango:
By foot
Quetzaltenango is full of walkable streets with so much to see.
Whilst walking from one place to another may be the longer option, most of the time it’s the best. Walking to your destination is a great way to explore the city.
The only time it may not be better to walk is at night. If you’re alone, you might want to get a taxi.
By minibus
For longer distances around Quetzaltenango, minivans or microbuses are the best options.
Quetzaltenango is full of them. You won’t have to wait long before one drives past in the direction that you want to go.
They have designated routes around the city, with the destination often advertised in the window. They also sometimes have someone shouting where they’re going (fast and loudly).
As well as being a mode of transport, the minivans can be part of your Quetzaltenango experience as you sit shoulder-to-shoulder with locals.
The minivans are the cheapest way to get around Quetzaltenango, costing only Q1.25 during the day and Q2 at night.
By taxi/Uber
Taxis can be found everywhere in Quetzaltenango. They’re often roaming the streets looking for passengers or waiting outside of popular locations such as the bus station.
Taxis are the most comfortable and convenient way to get around the city, but they’re also more expensive. Most rides within the city will cost between Q20-40.
Uber is also available in Quetzaltenango. They are normally cheaper and can be ordered to your exact location when you want them, so this may be a better option.
By chicken bus
Chicken bus is the nickname given to the brightly coloured and decorated buses in Guatemala. Fun fact: they’re actually retired school buses from the United States!
Sometimes it’s impossible to work out where they’re going. But once you’ve figured it out, the chicken buses are great for reaching hikes outside the city. Plus, they’re cheap and their hecticness adds to the adventure.
The 45-minute journey to Santa Maria Volcano costs only Q2.
Top 10 things to do in Quetzaltenango
Get your bucket list ready. In this guide, we’ll show you the best things to do in Quetzaltenango and how to experience them.
#1 Put your stamina to the test by hiking Volcano Santa Maria
Santa Maria Volcano can be seen from pretty much anywhere within Quetzaltenango, enticing people to take on the challenge to hike to the top.
Making the hike even more exciting, Santa Maria is still erupting and has been since 1922. In 1902, it produced one of the largest volcanic eruptions in the 20th century.
Don’t let its activity put you off, there hasn’t been an eruption in around 10 years.
How to hike Santa Maria Volcano
Hiking Santa Maria Volcano is one of the best things to do in Quetzaltenango. You’ll put your body to the test, and enjoy some incredible views.
Santa Maria is a 3,772m tall stratovolcano, the fourth highest in Guatemala.During the 3-4 hour hike up, you gain 1,230m of elevation. At some points the hike can be quite steep, and definitely shouldn’t be considered an easy hike.
Once you get to the base of the trail, the path to the summit is easy to follow. However, we would recommend using the trail on Maps.me to make sure that you stay on track.
Reaching the summit
Upon reaching the summit, all of your hard work is rewarded with spectacular views of Quetzaltenango and Guatemala’s volcano alley — seven volcanic peaks all in a line.
The best view, if you have good visibility, is of Santiaguito Volcano. It’s a smaller volcano that was formed during the 1902 Santa Maria eruption and is still erupting.
You should be able to hear the grumbles of eruptions and see plumes of smoke coming from Santiaguito.
Kate’s insider tip
The best time to see Santiaguito erupting is in the morning. Cloud coverage increases during the day, so consider getting to the summit for sunrise or before 10 am.
Adding to the magic of the views, you’ll also see a number of Mayan flower offerings at the top.
How to get to Santa Maria Volcano
Getting to Santa Maria Volcano is easy and cheap. You can take a chicken bus across the street from Iglesia El Calvario in Quetzaltenango.
The bus takes 45 minutes and costs Q2. You need to get off at Llanos del Pinal. The driver’s helper on the bus will shout out the stop names, so make sure you’re listening.
You can do this hike independently, or you can hire a guide in Quetzaltenango.
#2 Visit Quetzaltenango’s unique cemetery
Visiting a cemetery may not be at the top of everyone’s list of things to do, but you should visit the cemetery in Quetzaltenango.
At first glance, Quetzaltenango cemetery looks to be a colourful place brimming with mausoleums and tombs. A place to celebrate as well as mourn the dead. Almost every grave is different, making it an interesting place to explore.
Learn about Guatemalan society
The fascinating thing about the cemetery isn’t its tombs, though. It’s the insight that the cemetery gives into Guatemalan society.
Here you can tell the disparity between the rich and the poor by the decadence of the tombs. The rich are buried in large mausoleums, whilst the poorer groups of society are buried in stacked concrete tombs.
There is also a mass grave within the cemetery for those who can’t afford to buy a plot or pay the rent.A lot can be learned from the cemetery in Quetzaltenango.
#3 Study Spanish in Quetzaltenango
Guatemala has 24 different languages, but the main language spoken is Spanish. Learning Spanish can make travelling through Latin America significantly easier.
Even a week of lessons can give you the keys to a whole different experience on your travels, interacting and learning from locals.
Quetzaltenango is a great city to learn Spanish in. It’s a very livable city, plus there are a number of Spanish schools offering classes with homestays. Living with a local family in a homestay can be a great way to accelerate your journey of learning Spanish.
Miguel de Cervantes School of Spanish is a highly recommended school and reasonably priced. For example, 15 hours of lessons cost $123. Another good option is El Portal Spanish School with one week of one-on-one lessons and a seven-day homestay (including three meals a day) costing $160.
#4 Support Trama Textiles and learn to weave
Trama Textiles is a cooperative of female Maya backstrap loom weavers based in Quetzaltenango.
They work directly with 100 women from 17 weaving communities across 5 regions in the Western Highlands of Guatemala. The cooperative was formed in 1988 after the civil war in Guatemala that left a lot of women fending for themselves.
How can you get involved with Trama Textiles?
Visiting Trama Textiles is a great way to support these women. You can buy one of their incredible pieces of work or take a weaving lesson yourself!
You can choose a number of things to make, including a simple sample piece, a scarf or a complex embroidered table runner. A 1-hour class costs Q35, whilst a 10-hour scarf weaving course costs Q350.
It’s an incredible opportunity to work side by side with inspirational women, learn about the history of weaving and develop a new skill.
#5 Summit Tajumulco Volcano
Tajumulco is the highest peak in Central America, standing at an impressive 4,220m.
The hike to the summit of Tajumulco Volcano takes two days with an elevation gain of around 1,200m and a distance of just over 12 km.
Despite being the highest peak in Central America, Tajumulco Volcano isn’t super challenging to conquer, especially if you acclimate to the altitude beforehand.
The view at the summit makes the thousands of steps and sweat completely worth it. On a really good day, you’ll be able to see hundreds of kilometres across Guatemala and even into Mexico.
How to hike Tajumulco Volcano
You can hike Tajumulco Volcano independently, but you’ll need to camp on the volcano, so a lot of people opt to join a tour.
Joining a tour means that you have an experienced guide, equipment, transportation and food organised for you.You can find guided tours for around Q500 per person.
#6 Take on the 3-day hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan
Guatemala is a hiking haven. You have the spectacular Acatenango Volcano in Antigua, the lost Mayan city of El Mirador in the jungles up north and the beautiful trek from Xela to Lake Atitlan.
The 3-day unforgettable hike takes you through the Western Highlands of Guatemala from Quetzaltenango to Lake Atitlan.
What is the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike like?
Covering 46 km, the hike offers a glimpse of Guatemala’s diversity. In three days, you’ll hike through grasslands, cornfields, river valleys, coffee farms and cloud forests.
Along the way, you’ll stop in remote villages that are only accessible by foot and stay in local homestays. You may find them pretty basic, but that’s part of the experience.One of the best things about this hike is that it gives you an insight into a side of Guatemala that most visitors miss.
On day 3, the hike finishes on Indian Nose, a summit overlooking Lake Atitlan. It’s the perfect end to, and reward for, hours of hiking.
How to do the hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan
The hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan covers a number of trails that aren’t well-marked or documented online.
For this reason, most people hire a guide or join a tour. This also means that your accommodation, food and transportation are arranged for you.
A number of tourist agencies sell the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike in Quetzaltenango. The price tends to be around Q750 per person.
#7 Witness the sacredness of Cerro Quemado
Cerro Quemado, meaning ‘burnt hill’, is one of the easier hikes from Quetzaltenango.
As well as being an enjoyable 2-hour hike, the journey also feels like a cultural experience. Cerro Quemado is a sacred religious place for Evangelicals and Mayans.
During the hike up, you’ll see bouquets of flowers, crosses and written prayers snuggled into cracks in the rocks.
#8 Relax at Fuentes Georginas hot springs
If you’ve decided to embark on any of the volcano hikes in this guide, you might want to also treat yourself by visiting Fuentes Georginas hot springs.
Heated by Zunil Volcano, the four thermal pools will treat your sore muscles in no time. All of them have different temperatures, so you can find the one that’s perfect for you.
The hot springs are a nice place to spend the day relaxing. There is also a restaurant and a short hike in the jungle surrounding the hot springs.
How to visit Fuentes Georginas hot springs
Fuentes Georginas hot springs are located just under an hour from Quetzaltenango.
The easiest way to get there, if you don’t have your own car, is to book a shuttle. These cost Q25 per person.
Another option is to take a chicken bus to the town of Zunil for Q5 and then take a tuk-tuk/taxi to the hot springs. This price will depend on your haggling skills but should cost around 50Q per group.
Entrance to the hot springs cost Q60 per person, and they are open from 9 am-6 pm every day.
#9 Splash around at Xocomil Waterpark
Located a 1.5-hour drive from Quetzaltenango, Xocomil Waterpark is the largest in Guatemala.
Whether you have kids, or you’re a big kid yourself, everyone is guaranteed to have a good time here. With four different pools, a lazy river and plenty of slides, you won’t want to leave at the end of the day.
The whole waterpark is surrounded by vegetation, making you feel like you’re in the middle of the Guatemalan jungle.
Tickets cost Q100 for adults and Q50 for kids.Xocomil Waterpark is only open Thursday to Sunday from 9 am-5 pm.
#10 Chant and cheer at a football match in Quetzaltenango
Watching a football game in Latin America has to be on your bucket list. The atmosphere is indescribable and like nowhere else in the world!
Fans chant for the entirety of the game, light fireworks and go a little crazy. The vibrant atmosphere is infectious, and before long, you’ll be trying to join in with the Spanish chants.
Quetzaltenango may not be the best place in Latin America to watch a football game, but if there’s a match on whilst you’re there, GO!
Xelaju MC is the local team, so make sure you know who you’re supporting. The matches are held in the city’s stadium, Estadio Mario Camposeco, with a capacity of 11,000 spectators.
Tickets can normally be bought just before the game at the stadium and vary in price depending on the game.
Rounding it up
After reading this detailed guide, you should have a good idea of what to do in Quetzaltenango, the best places to stay and where to eat. We hope you have the best time exploring this lesser-known city in Guatemala.
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